Spot welding of very dissimilar metals, such as aluminum and steel, is generally not possible because of different melting characteristics and conductivities. Some types of coated low-carbon steels require special techniques. Steels plated with chrome and nickel for electrical conductivity can usually be resistance welded as readily as uncoated material. Aluminum, tin, zinc and terne-coated steels are also spot weldable with special precautions and welding equipment. Some coatings can emit poisonous fumes that must be safely handled when spot welded, thereby increasing cost. Spot welding of coated substrates creates burn marks in the coating which can be unsightly and may corrode in severe environments. Designers should carefully consider the product’s appearance and service requirements before specifying spot welding of pre-plated materials.
One alternative to plug welding is “MIG spot welding”. It is similar to plug welding, although a hole is not drilled in the front sheet of metal. Instead the power of the MIG is relied upon to fully melt the top sheet and penetrate into the back sheet. This technique would require less preparation work than plug welding, but the two sheets need to be in tight contact and high amps used to complete the weld or else the weld could be very weak. Plug welding is a much more suitable technique for all but the most experienced welders.
How Does Spot Welding Work? A form of resistance welding, spot welding is one of the oldest welding processes whereby two or more sheets of metal are welded together without the use of any filler material. The process involves applying pressure and heat to the weld area using shaped alloy copper electrodes which convey an electrical current through the weld pieces. The material melts, fusing the parts together at which point the current is turned off, pressure from the electrodes is maintained and the molten “nugget” solidifies to form the joint. Read extra details on Auto Body Spot Welder.
To make sure your welding settings are correct, you should carry out a test run using metal offcuts, followed by a destructive test where you separate the welded parts with a hammer and a forked chisel. After separation, a hole must be made in one of the two conjoined sheets – a process known as “unbuttoning” in metalworking jargon – as proof that the settings are right for the metals and thicknesses involved. Apologies for the abstruse technical term! When welding radiators, make sure you also carry out a leak test.